I ate at a puppy-themed cafe and shopped for stuffed toys at the Harajuku Line Friends store. On the man-made Odaiba island, I watched a J-pop boy band dance under a 60-foot-tall robot. At nightfall, I sipped bloody cocktails at a bar based on Dario Argento’s cult film, “Suspiria.” Then I partied with the city’s most flamboyant club kids at Decabar Z in Shinjuku.
The “Guest” diner in Parco Shibuya held a Pokemon pop-up café. Japanese teens lined up for hours for a chance to wear costumes and dine with their favorite anime characters.
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Everything on the menu looked too cute to eat. I ordered a Pikachu latte with ears made out of chocolate-dipped wafers.
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Dessert arrived in a dramatic “Poke-ball” steaming with dry ice smoke. The dish came with a chocolate pen for drawing on the pancakes.
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Harajuku is home to possibly the world’s cutest restaurant, based on the Sanrio character PomPomPurin. The yellow golden retriever smiles from every corner of the room.
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Every dish is an edible work of art. This puppy snoozes under an egg sheet blanket, wearing a cap made from ham and carrot.
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I’m not sure how mashed potatoes, a pink noodle and pancakes go together — but the resulting platter is ridiculously cute.
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The Line app’s mascots have grown so popular that they now have their own shop in Harajuku. Fans swarm here to hug the big bear, Brown.
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After posing with the character statues, I shopped for eccentric souvenirs like rabbit-faced cushions.
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On the entertainment island of Odaiba, a giant Gundam (robot) statue shoots beams out of his eyes and nods his head.
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I saw an effeminate boy band perform synchronized dance moves, while Mr. Roboto towered above them.
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Diver City mall is filled with quirky shops and restaurants. This unnerving display is based on a Japanese monster cartoon.
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I bowed to Hello Kitty. She reigns over her gift store in a traditional pink kimono.
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A rainbow tunnel brings me to a mall inspired by Ancient Rome, complete with naked statues of the gods.
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At one of Tokyo’s biggest game arcades, I fought a mechanical Sumo wrestler. He won.
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I hosted Odigo’s launch party at a Kilo Shop, where you pay for vintage clothing by weighing it on a scale.
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The fashion at Dog seems to come from another galaxy. Lady Gaga is a fan of this upscale punk boutique.
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Shinjuku’s Golden Gai bar district is home to Cambiare, a bar based after Dario Argento’s “Suspiria.” The wallpaper and stained glass window are replicas of the horror movie set.
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Kagaya takes performance art dining to a surreal level. The owner, Mark, ducks into a closet and then comes out screaming and jumping around in costumes.
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Tokyo’s experimental fashion crowd gathers at Decabar Z in Kabukicho. This bartender wears the extreme “ganguro” makeup popular in the early 1990s.
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I’ve encountered mistresses, drag queens, pole dancers and Ghostbusters at this crazy club.
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